Likely an issue with the card, if you can find another dGPU or use your CPU’s on-board video you can isolate as to whether it is an issue with that card specifically.

Likely the card has bad memory or a corrupted BIOS.

If it works sometimes and others not at all, it’s probably aconnection issue. Bad memory or bios would either fail every time or cause corrupted output I think?

Edit: typo

Look up the beep codes for your motherboard in the manual (find on their website) to confirm what the beeps mean. (Good to have downloaded/bookmarked anyway)

Next/first, with the computer turned off at the PSU (but still plugged in) try removing and re-slotting the GPU (there may be a button/leaver to release it on the motherboard. There may also be a screw holding it into the case on the inside at the back). If it only sometimes doesn’t work, that indicates it’s probably just a bad connection.

I’ve a similar board. Long-short-short-short means no graphics adapter detected, and then that pause with one short beep I think means no keyboard detected.

Edit: ASUS have stopped putting the beep codes in their manuals for some reason so I don’t know where one is expected to find this information out. It was in my manual but that’s a much older model.

Yeah, more likely. You mention ‘chinese’ and that threw a red flag. Anything from there, particularly when it comes to electronics and computer components, should always be a high concern. I mean, look at the plating of the card. You say it comes up as a GTX 1650, so why is the plating saying ‘GTX-10’? If you look up low-profile GTX 1650, you will know that NONE of them look like that.

My sibling in Satan, literally a majority of electronic components are made in China.

But the Chinese stores are of concern. 😅

But quantity does not equal quality. I mean come on, this has been proven time and time again. Don’t play dumb.

Also there are Chinese knockoffs that claim to be Card xxxx and turns out its some cheap card with some custom firmware to trick the OS into thinking it’s the card you bought

The point still stands… that does not look like a GTX 1650? Unless someone swapped the cooler on it, that seems like a fake card or hacked firmware to me

Look into Nvidia MATS/MODS if you want to test the card and its memory. It’s Nvidia’s own internal diagnostic software.

Do I see only 20 pins of the 24 pin motherboard power connector actually filled there? Your 1650 is getting all its power from the motherboard, so you might be right on the edge of what the power supply that came with the office PC can handle.

Yeah thinking the same. 10 series is new enough where 24 pin mobos were a thing, and so if it doesn’t have its own power connector then it’ll need quite a bit from the mobo.

The 1650’s TDP is 75W, which is the most you can draw just from the slot.

You don’t have enough power supply.

Took a looked at the PSU and It is 400W which I think should be enough, especially when the CPU connection only need 4 pin

It really seems like replacing that with a higher rated name brand psu will resolve your problem. You’re running up against the maximum power the pcie slot is rated to deliver. Claimed wattage only tells part of the story. All that power for the card has to come through the 24 pin connector along with everything else.

If you wanna prove me wrong plug the motherboard/cpu/gpu into someone else’s higher rated power supply and show that it has the same behavior.

If there’s a computer shop near you they’ll probably do this test in front of you with one of their power supplies for a couple of bucks. If there’s a gamer friend they’ll do it for free to help you figure out the problem.

Look closely at OP’s original pic. I’m pretty sure the power for the card is coming through an old 20 pin connector from that dodgy power supply, it doesn’t even have a 24 pin connector.

Looks like a 24 pin to me, but it’s blurry and who can say.

Either way an old oem psu isn’t the way to go.

low psu, or might be something sleep/uefi/fastboot related

Took a photo at the PSU here. It is 400W, which I think should be enough, especially when the CPU connection only need 4 pin

Give us a close up of your motherboard here.

Also, try booting without the optical drive plugged into anything. It’s useless anyway and it might be just enough of a difference in power to get you booted reliably. If that does work though, I wouldn’t be surprised if you see crashes when you throw a graphics workload at your card and it tries to draw its full power.

unplug the optical drive makes it boot properly it seems to be a psu problem will upgrading to 500W work? or I need 600W?

500W is plenty, just make sure it’s from a reputable brand instead of the no-name that came with the case.

what if i want to uograde the i3 8100 to a 9th gen i5 or i7? does that change the PSU a lot?

I would expect a (legitimate) 500W psu to still be enough, going from i3-8100 to i7-9700k is only going from 65W TDP to 95W TDP. I would recommend a better cooler than the stock intel one if you go for that, though.

Do you still use the optical drive? If not just leave that unplugged

The GPU (and CPU, for that matter) at full load will draw more than it does at boot. Just because disconnecting the optical drive bought enough headroom to successfully boot does not necessarily mean that the computer will be stable under load.